Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

pumped forearm muscles.
    detraining —Reversal of positive adaptations to chronic exercise upon cessation of an exercise program.
    drop-knee —An exaggerated backstep, commonly used on overhanging rock, where the inside knee is dropped toward the ground, resulting in a stable chimneylike position.
    dynamic move —An explosive leap for a hold otherwise out of reach.
    dyno —Short for “dynamic.”
    eccentric contraction —A muscle action in which the muscle resists as it is forced to lengthen, as in the biceps during the lowering phase of a pull-up.
    electrolyte —A substance that, in solution, is capable of conducting electricity. Certain electrolytes are essential to the electrochemical functioning of the body.
    endurance —The ability to perform physical work for an extended period of time. Cardiovascular endurance is directly related to VO 2 max, whereas muscular endurance is influenced by circulation and available oxygen.
    enzyme —A protein molecule that aids chemical reactions.
    epicondylitis —Inflammation of the tendon origins of the forearm flexors (medial) or extensors (lateral) near the elbow.
    ergogenic —Performance enhancing.
    estrogen —The sex hormone that predominates in females, but also has some functions in males.
    extension —A movement that moves the two ends of a jointed body part away from each other, as in straightening the arm.
    fast-twitch fibers —The muscle fiber type that contracts quickly and is used mostly during intense, powerful movements.
    flagging —A climbing technique in which one foot is crossed behind the other to avoid barndooring and to improve balance.
    flash —To climb a route first try without ever having touched it, but with the aid of beta.
    flash pump —A rapid, often vicious, muscular pump resulting from strenuous training or climbing without first performing a proper, gradual warm-up.
    flexion —A movement that brings the ends of a body part closer together, as in bending the arm.
    G-Tox —A technique that uses gravity to help speed recovery from a forearm pump. It involves alternating, every five to ten seconds, the position of the resting arm between the normal hanging-at-your-side position and a raised-hand position above your shoulder.
    glycogen —Compound chains of glucose stored in the muscle and liver for use during aerobic or anaerobic exercise.
    glycemic index (GI) —A scale that classifies how the ingestion of various foods affects blood sugar levels in comparison with the ingestion of straight glucose.
    Golgi tendon organ —Sensory receptors located between the muscle and its tendon that are sensitive to the stretch of the muscle tendon produced during muscular contraction.
    gripped —Extremely scared.
    hangdogging —Climbing a route, usually bolt-to-bolt, with the aid of a rope to hang and rest while practicing the sequence.
    heel hook —Use of the heel on a hold, usually near chest level, to aid in pulling and balance.
    homeostasis —The body’s tendency to maintain a steady state despite external changes.
    honed —In extremely good shape; with low body fat.
    hormone —A chemical secreted into the bloodstream to regulate the function of a certain organ.
    hyperemia —Increased blood flow in the working muscles during exercise or as a result of deep sports massage.
    Hypergravity Isolation Training (HIT) —A highly refined and specific method of training maximum finger strength and upper-body power by climbing on identical finger holds (isolation) with greater than body weight (hypergravity). Also known as Hörst Isolation Training.
    hypertrophy —Enlargement in size (for example, muscular hypertrophy).
    insertion —The point of attachment of a muscle to a distal or relatively more movable bone.
    insulin —A hormone that decreases blood glucose level by driving glucose from the blood into muscle and fat cells.
    interval training —A method of anaerobic endurance training that involves brief periods of intense training interspaced with periods of rest or low-intensity training.
    isometric —A muscular contraction resulting in no shortening movement of the muscle.
    kinesiology —The scientific study of human movement.
    kinesthetic —The sense derived from muscular contractions and limb movements.
    killer —Extraordinarily good, as in a killer route.
    lactic acid —An acid by-product of the anaerobic metabolism of glucose during intense muscular exercise.
    lactic acid system —The energy pathway used in high-intensity