Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

mental agility as well as the ability to trick yourself into persevering in the face of adversity. Breaking a climb into a series of more manageable chunks and setting yourself up for several small wins is a most effective strategy.

4. Engage both sides of the brain.
     
    You may be familiar with the fact that the brain has two hemispheres—the left hemisphere, which presides over logical, practical, language, mathematical, and related matters, and the right hemisphere, which dominates in creative, artistic, intuitive, situational, and imaginary matters. The majority of people are “left-brained” and, even if you aren’t, intense situations with lots of information—like climbing—tend to bring the left brain into command. The result is that many climbers leave their right brain on the ground and therefore handicap their problem-solving ability, big time! I can think of countless times I’ve fallen on routes because I was thinking in a linear fashion and with blinders on that prevented me from finding a key hold, sequence, or rest. (Cut me a break, I’m a scientist, not an artist!)
    The right brain is best accessed when you are in a relaxed state (another reason some climbers have a tough time freeing it up). Thus, bringing it into play requires that you resist the Type A behavior of rushing up to a route and quickly going for the send, and instead get comfortable at the base of the climb, warm up slowly, and make a relaxed study of the climb before tying in to the rope. Some severely left-brained people will need to force themselves to think out of the box. Seeing the big picture and imagining all the possible approaches and sequences on a climb is a habit you may need to foster through your own initiative. Your goal should be a balanced approach to problem solving in which you can think logically and practically as well as intuitively and creatively. Being able to create (on demand) and leverage this state is one of the hallmarks of brilliant climbers such as Lynn Hill and Chris Sharma, who can perform at an exceedingly high level in a wide range of styles and settings.

5. Employ multisensory learning.
     
    Everything we learn comes through one of our five senses, and the more senses we use in learning, the faster and easier it becomes. Climbers tend to use primarily the sense of vision before they leave the ground, and feel once they begin to climb. While the senses of smell and taste can’t contribute to performance in this sport, the auditory sense can also be a powerful learning tool (Knudson 1997), particularly when faced with a tricky boulder problem or when working to memorize a difficult sequence. Climbers who give names to key holds and moves and then create verbal beta are using this trick. Remembering an obscure sequence of tiny holds by feel or vision can be enhanced with descriptive verbal beta like high-step to the dime edge, then deadpoint to the potato chip flake. It may sound funny, but it works.
    Multisensory learning is a sign of the intelligent climber, so begin to talk yourself through sequences in addition to visualizing and feeling the moves. By talking the talk, you make it easier to climb the climb!

6. Try something ridiculous.
     
    The biggest block to learning is judgment. Self-talk like Others use this sequence, so that must be the best way, or discounting a novel or improbable sequence that flashes into your mind without trying it first, is a form of self-sabotage. It’s vital that you don’t limit yourself this way—your brain doesn’t know what you can or cannot do until you tell it. Don’t prejudge sequences or your capabilities!
    The best problem solvers are both creative and uninhibited. They never hesitate to try a novel solution that’s entirely different from the known sequence. You can foster these skills by ignoring the obvious solution—the one that’s not currently working for you—and attempting a few completely different, even ridiculous sequences.
    Regardless of how improbable a given technique looks—heel hook, undercling, high step, knee bar—don’t pass judgment on it until you make a few attempts with that technique. Try a variety of body positions, foot flags, lunges, and don’t ignore less positive holds like Gastons, side pulls, and pinches. Eliminate the seemingly must-use hold—or at least try using it with the opposite hand. Search for unchalked holds that might unlock the sequence, and keep a constant watch for footholds that are off